Top stories on cosmetic science, formulation and R&D in the APAC beauty space


1 – A good replacement? Australian company considers opportunities for Indian sandalwood as an alternative to CBD after China’s ban

Australian sandalwood supplier Quintis sees new opportunities in cosmetics space in China after new scientific review reveals Sandalwood oil has more scientifically proven benefits than CBD oil.

Quintis Sandalwood is an Indian and Australian supplier of sandalwood raw materials including oil, powder, logs and chips for multiple industries for use in perfumes, cosmetics, as well as ‘incense and religious sculptures.

Previously, the company told CosmeticsDesign-Asia that it was placing more emphasis on the cosmetic side of the business, believing it could tap into the market demand for natural products.

Now, Quintis is looking to target the Chinese market following a new review revealing that Indian sandalwood oil, or Santalum album,has more proven benefits than cannabidiol (CBD).

2 – Herbal Help: Himalayan Neem Facial Cleanser has been clinically proven to reduce acne after four weeks while maintaining hydration

A herbal facial cleanser made by the Indian Himalaya Drug Company has been clinically studied to prevent and reduce Mild to moderate acne after four weeks of daily use.

The test item is Himalayan Neem Purifying Facial Wash, a soap-free, pH balanced formulation containing neem and turmeric marketed to prevent or reduce acne.

In this study, the facial cleanser was also shown to reduce sebum levels and maintain adequate hydration.

The hallmarks of acne are non-inflammatory lesions such as blackheads and whiteheads, and inflammatory lesions such as cysts.

3 – Just peachy: Amorepacific files a patent on sebum inhibitor peach shoot and peony extract

Korean cosmetics company Amorepacific has developed an active ingredient made from extracts of peach shoots and peonies, which it claims to be effective in inhibiting and regulating the secretion of sebum on the skin.

By improving the excessive secretion of sebum, the formula can help improve skin problems such as acne or seborrheic dermatitis.

Overproduction of sebum can also lead to denaturation and reduction of collagen fibers and elastic fibers supporting the walls of the pores. This would reduce the elasticity of the skin and lead to enlargement of the pores.

The existing sebum reducing products on the market lack effectiveness, Amorepacific said in the patent. For example, products that use a porous powder that only temporarily absorbs sebum and provides a “insignificant”effect.

4 – Tissue Engineering May Help Test on Dark Skin Types in the Lab: Study

Observations indicate that different skin ethnicities experience aging differently, and using tissue engineering, a French research team set out to show the interest of in vitro studies in research on dark skin.

The article, written by Capallere et al and published in the Cosmetics Journal of MDPI, tested clinically known diseases and responses to aging of dark skin types, including acne, hyperpigmentation and dryness, with a reconstructed pigmented epidermis. Specifically, the study focused on phototypes V and VI in the Fitzgerald classification, defined as brown skin and dark brown or black skin, respectively.

“It is interesting to note that the classification of skin tone helps determine potential skin disorders that can occur with age”, said the newspaper. “Skin disorders commonly reported in dark skin tones, such as inflammation, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and dryness, have been studied with the support of tissue engineering and, more specifically, epidermal reconstruction. , including melanocytes to mimic different skin tones. “

5 – Beer by-product as a possible source of cosmetic antioxidant ingredients: study

In the name of sustainability, The byproducts of craft beer brewing could get a second life as antioxidants in cosmetics.

The Italian research team, Censi et al, set out to determine the level of phenol and antioxidant activity of the by-product of several types of craft beer and assessed the impacts of extracts from beer waste on human keratinocytes in order to to demonstrate their possible uses in beauty products.

As craft beers gain popularity in the United States and Europe, the research team said the unpasteurized and unfiltered nature of the product presents a unique opportunity to derive personal care ingredients.

“Thus, the evaluation of antioxidants in beer production waste can be of great importance when considering the rapid growth of the craft beer market around the world”,said the newspaper. “The exploitation of brewery by-products to develop health products such as cosmetics and / or supplements would help increase the sustainability of beer production. “


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