Lilies show immense potential for cosmetics line – Review

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In formulations, the extracts could deliver a myriad of benefits, such as anti-aging, radiation protection, whitening, hydration, freckle removal, acne treatment and hair regeneration.

These results have been documented in a summary document entitled “Potential Applications of Lilium Plants in Cosmetics: A Comprehensive Review Based on Research Papers and Patents”, published in the journal Antioxidants.

“Natural herbal products are widely used in cosmetic compositions for skin care, hair care and toilet preparations because they are generally considered safe and do not predispose consumers to allergic reactions. Beauty-related herbal extract cosmetics are due to their antioxidant, antibacterial, healing, anti-aging, sunscreen, cytoprotective, skin whitening and anti-inflammatory activities.

“Therefore, in this review, the chemical constituents of Lilium with potential cosmetic applications have been summarized; based on the patent, the application area, main efficacy and compatible ingredients of lily in cosmetics were analyzed; and the opportunities, challenges and development potential of Lilium in cosmetic applications were discussed,”the researchers said.

The team accessed academic papers and 218 patent publications from 2000 to 2021 to analyze potential cosmetic application ingredients in lily, their applications in cosmetics, and associated efficacy for the current study.

Flowering potential

According to de Lima Cherubim, DJ et al.​ (2020), phenols have attracted attention due to their outstanding antioxidant, bacteriostatic, anti-aging and skin repair functions in cosmetics. Coincidentally, phenols were abundant bioactives in lilies, as studied by Liang ZX et al.​ (2022), Tang, YC et al.(2021), Rakhimjanova, A. et al.(2020) and Wang TT et al.(2015).

The previous study by the team (Tang, YC et al.​, 2021) also detected 153 phenolic acids and 201 flavonoids in different lilies. Moreover, the total content of phenolic acid and flavonoids in different lily materials varies considerably between different Liliumbulbs. Phenol and flavonoid content varies within a single lily plant – aerial parts contain significantly higher amounts than underground parts. The variation could indicate that the stems, leaves, and flowers of lilies also have potential cosmetic uses.

Besides phenols and flavonoids, lilies contain carbohydrates like polysaccharides, which can help retain water and become an effective moisturizer. The moisturizing function has been demonstrated in studies conducted by scientists like Huang Y. et al.(2020) and Zhang M. et al.(2022).

The substance also exhibited antioxidant, bacteriostatic, anti-inflammatory, wound repair and cancer cell inhibition functions, as shown in studies such as the one performed by Albuquerque, PBS et al.(2022). Such functions potentially indicate their potential application in skin repair and inhibition of skin carcinogenesis, as suggested by Hui H. et al.(2019), Pan G. et al.(2017), XuZ. et al.(2016), Gao J. et al.(2015), Zhao BT et al.​ (2013) and You XJ et al.(2010).

The scientists also conducted a patent analysis and found that applications for lily-related cosmetics are mostly concentrated in East Asia, including China, Korea, and Japan. The three countries accounted for 95.87% of the total submissions, implying that floral compounds were more likely to be used as an ingredient in East Asia than in other parts of the world.

In patent applications, compounds are mainly categorized into raw materials, product types, and functions, and used in products such as face masks, emulsions, and essences. The products would then claim similar benefits, such as moisturizing, whitening, anti-aging, beautifying, skin-smoothing, nourishing, anti-inflammatory and promoting blood circulation.

Lilies were also compatible with other plants, such as honey, ginseng, honeysuckle, licorice, pearl powder, dandelion, lotus seeds, Chinese wolfberry, mung bean, and roses.

“However, since only a small number of Lilium species are currently licensed for application in cosmetics, this leads to a shortage of its raw materials. Whereas current applications of lilies in cosmetics are dominated by extracts raw, substance-specific information on their role in the cosmetic action is lacking.

“Therefore, further dissections of the functions of specific components in Lilium plants are needed. cosmetic raw materials are the solutions to the shortage of raw materials for cosmetic applications, but their safety has yet to be assessed,”concluded the researchers.

The current study was supported by the National Key R&D Program of China and the National Natural Science Foundation of China.

Source:​ Antioxidants

“Potential Applications of Lilium Plants in Cosmetics: A Comprehensive Review Based on Research Papers and Patents”

DO I:10.3390/antiox11081458

Authors:Tang Yuchao et al.

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